Shoe



NOV. 1, 1938. w D A 2,135,233

SHOE

Filed July 9, 1936 a INVENTOR.

Patented Nov. 1, 1938 UNITED STATES PATENT FFlE 2 Cla ms.

My invention relates to shoes and one of the objects is the production of a shoe that has the good wearing qualities and flexibility of a sewed shoe and; the smart lines anddainty, yet sturdy, character of a cemented shoe.

In a shoe, where the sole is cemented to the upper from heel to toe, there isa chance of the sole coming off the shoe, particularly around the forepart of the shoe. Then again, there are objections to a cemented sole, because it is claimed that it burns the feet of the wearer.

In the manufacture of a sewed shoe, when channeling the shank of the outersole and then sewing down the shank, the shoe becomes distorted and takes away from the shoe-maker the opportunity to produce a clean cut shank, which is desirable especially, in womens footwear today. However, when the shank is cemented to the shoe on the last, it insures that the shoe will then have the same perfect lines as are put in the arch of the last.

By sewing only the forepart of the shoe by the McKay or lockstitch method of sewing and cementing the shank, the operator is able to hold the shoe flat and thus control the original shape of the shoe and the fitting measurements.

In connection with the manufacture especially, of ladies shoes, in order to help support the arch, it has been the practice to provide a bulge or offset on the inner side of the shank of the inner sole and termed a cookie inner. It has never been proposed however to put this bulge or offset on the inside shank of the outersole, where on account of the much stiffer leather, a more adequate support is provided for the arch and weight of the body. If the shank of the shoe is sewed, on account of the curvature of the bulge, it would be difficult to channel and sew through such a shank. A further object of the invention therefore relates to the provision of the bulge or offset on the inside shank of the outersole of any type of shoe.

Still another object is to provide the innersole with a felt insert leaving the outer edge of the innersole intact and forming what I call a ball cushion.

Referring to the drawing for a more complete disclosure of my invention,

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a ladys shoe showing in dotted lines the sewing of the forepart of the shoe, and also in full lines the bulge or offset on the inside shank of the outersole.

Fig. 2 is a perspective view of the outer side of the molded leather sole with the bulge ready for application to the shoe,

Fig. 3 isa plan view of the inner side of the molded outersole shown in Fig. 2,

Fig. 4 is an elevation of the molded sole shown in Figs. 2 and 3,

Fig. 5 is a section on the line 55- of Fig. 1,

Fig. 6 is a section on the line 6--6 of Fig. 1,

Fig. '7 is a planviewof the innersole,

Fig. 3 is a section on the line 8-8 of Fig. '7.

The shoe is lasted in the customary manner of making McKay shoes in which, after the innersole l is correctly positioned on the last, the upper 2 and lining 3 are pulled tightly over the last and fastened to the under surface of the innersole by means of tacks 5 (or other used methods) which penetrate the innersole and are clinched against the steel bottom of the last. After the application of a steel shank stiffener 4 and filler 6, the shoe is then ready for laying the outersole.

The outersole I is provided with the offset or bulge 8 at the shank and is also channeled at 9 along the forepart of the sole only. The sole is molded into shape as shown in Figs. 3 and 4 and is then laid on the upper and held in place by the layer of cement Ill which has been applied to the outersole, temporarily adhering the sole to the forepart of the shoe and permanently adhering it to the shank of the shoe.

The last having been removed from the shoe, it is now sewed at I I through the forepart of the sole with a McKay stitch, or lockstitch, or any other vertical method.

The channel 9 having been laid and the shoe beaten out, it is now ready for heeling.

One of the advantages of having the cookie on the outersole rather than on the innersole is that in the lasting, the upper lays in direct contact with the wood of the last .at the shank, which is impossible when using a cookie inner, unless using a special last with a depression to take up the thickness of the cookie.

The general comfort of the shoe is improved by using the particular type of innersole with the ball cushion [2. It will be noted that the cushion extends to the inner side of the innersole but that the outer side 13 of the innersole is continuous and uncut. This outer portion [3 holds the general shape of the innersole, whereas by cutting away the inner edge of the innersole and inserting the pad, the ball of the foot does not ride up on the hard part of the innersole. The material of the cushion may be any resilient material such as piano felt, rubber, etc., and may be held in place by sewing [4.

From the above description, it will be seen that I provide a method of making shoes, that produces a shoe having the advantages of a machine sewed shoe and cemented shoe and by providing the outersole at the shank with the bulge or cookie*, I make a shoe with a strong support for the arch and weight of the body.

While I have particularly illustrated and described the use of an outersole having the bulge or cookie on the inner side, in connection with the manufacture of a ladys shoe where the forepart is sewed and the shank portion is cemented to the upper, I do not intend to so limit the use of this part of my invention. The same type of shank can be applied to an all-over cemented shoe as well as to a sewed iorepart-cementedshank shoe. While it would be difiicult with present machine methods to sew a shank to the While I have illustrated and described the' present preferred form of the invention, it will be understood that I reserve the right to all changes properly falling within the spirit and scope of the appended claims. j

I claim: I H

1. The method of making a shoe comprising providing an inner sole and an upper, assembling them on a last, lasting the upper and attaching its margin to the inner sole margin, providing an outer sole having ,a' shank portion with an oiiset on its innerside; pre-molding the offset to conform to the arch of the shoe, laying the outer sole with the pre-molded offset on the upper, securing the outer sole to the upper and comprising permanently cementing the shank portion and offset of the outer sole to the upper.

2. The method of making a shoe comprising providing an inner sole and an upper, assembling them on a last, lasting the upper and attaching its margin to the inner sole margin, providing an outer sole having ashank portion with an offset on its inner side, pre-molding the offset to conform to the arch of the shoe, laying the outer sole with the pre-molded offset on the upper, permanently cementing the shank,

portion and offset of the outer sole to the upper and, sewing only the forepart of the outer sole to the upper. V

WARREN L. DELANEY. 

